Sasirangan as a identity textile textures cultural banjar
Maybe we have and are often seen from the types of
motifs fabrics made with hands (handcracft). In various parts of the world many
tribes appreciate their creativity in the form of motifs and woven
fabrics. For example Zanshi weaving and Boro from japan, Sampot from Cambodia, Huipil from Mexico, Batik from Java tribe on the island of Java and others. Creativity of the fabric motifs contains elements of high art and philosophy from the manufacturer which is a form of their local identity:
In Banjar ethnic, textile pattern which is the result of creativity of the people called by sasirangan.
Sasirangan is a ethnic cloth of Banjar in South Kalimantan, which made
its way baste stitch is then tied the rope and then dipped into dye. So,
that bond produces certain motives.In Banjar ethnic, textile pattern
which is the result of creativity of the people called by sasirangan. Sasirangan is
tribal fabric Banjar in South Kalimantan, which made its way baste
stitch is then tied the rope and then dipped into dye. So, that bond
produces certain motives.
The History
According to several sources of folklore or tales, about XII century
until XIV century in the Dipa kingdom, which first made sasirangan
fabric is when the duke of Lambung Mangkurat be imprisoned for 40 days
and 40 nights on the raft
balarut banyu (follow the flow of river water). Towards the end of his meditation raft duke arrived in the area
Rantau, Bagantung
town, he saw some foam on the water. And in the froth of a woman's
voice called Princess Bubble cherished. But he would surface if the
conditions which he requested be granted, namely a palace Batung
completed in a day and can be completed daily fabric is woven and
dicalap (colored) by 40 daughters with the motive of rice /
padiwaringin. From the time it was first made sasirangan fabric and is often called the
Calapan fabrics that became known by the name of
Sasirangan fabrics.
Sasirangan first time also called
Langgundi cloth; a woven fabric is colored yellow.
Langgundifabric is fabric that is used as an ingredient to make all citizens of the kingdom daily clothing Nagara Dipa kingdom.
Sasirangan fabric is typical craft area of
South Kalimantan (South Borneo). According to local elders, formerly used as
Laung (a headband ), men wear belts, scarves and
kakamban (hoods ) by women. This cloth is also a traditional dress worn during
traditional ceremonies,
and
even used in the treatment of the sick. Far from its use upon a time,
now no longer used sasirangan fabric to the spiritual. But it has become
everyday clothing and apparel is characteristic of South Kalimantan. In
South Kalimantan, fabric crafts sasirangan is one of the typical areas
that need to be inherited, preserved and developed in the days ahead.
The Process of Sasirangan
The word "
Sasirangan" comes from the word
sirang (local language) which means tied or sewn by hand and pulled the thread or in terms of language
dijelujur sewing. Sasirangan fabric made by using
mori fabric,
polyester,
are sewn in a certain way. Then it washed with a variety of desired
colors, resulting in a material dress patterned with colorful stripes or
motifs that is unique and distinctive.
In the manufacture of sasirangan cloth, firstly
menyirang .
Fabric is cut sufficiently tailored clothing for women or men. Then
fabric painted with traditional motifs cloth, then disirang or sewn by
hand is tenuous following the motif. Fabrics that have been stitched
pulled stitching yarn in order to tighten the seams, so tightly puckered
fabric and cloth are ready to enter the next process.
The second; preparation of dyes, dye used is a dye for batik. All dye for batik can be used for dyeing cloth
sasirangan.
But dyes are commonly used today are naphtol dyes with salt. Other
materials as a maid are caustic soda (NaOH), TRO / Sepritus, boiling hot
water. At first dye is taken in moderation, then diluted / made a paste
by adding a TRO / methylated, then stir until all the soluble /
dissolves. After all the dissolved substance, then added some drops of
caustic soda and finally added with hot water and cold water as
necessary. The solution should be clear / clear. To dissolve the dye
naphtol is considered finished and already can be used to dye cloth
sasirangan.
To create the desired color, then dye naphtol be generated with salt. To
dissolve the salts thereof, taken in accordance with the purposes and
then add hot water gradually while stirring, stirring vigorously so that
all the dissolved substances and the clear solution obtained. The
number of solutions tailored to the needs. Both the solution of naphtol
and salt can already be used to dye cloth sasirangan, namely by first
rubbing / brushing naphtol dyes on fabrics that have been disirang who
later added to another / salt solution is applied so that there will be
color on fabric that has been smeared according
sasirangan with the desired color. Once all the fabric dyed, fabric washed until the washing water is colorless again.
Before the advent of synthetic dyes, fabrics using natural dyes used Sasirangan from nature, such as from
Karamunting tree, Mengkudu fruit, Roots Kebuau, Gambier, Areca, and
so forth. In addition to these natural dyes, fabric Sasirangan usually
also use some materials from nature to strengthen the resilience of
color, such
as lime, alum, lime, and so forth.
Third, the cloth is clean then released so that the seams are visible scar motives among existing colors on the cloth. Up here
sasirangan
fabric-making process has been completed and dried salanjutnya trimmed
with iron and ready to be marketed. At the banjar society, sasirangan
fabric has a variety of basic motifs that have been patented its kind.
This is in order to maintain cultural values and banjo work. Some of the
basic motives are as follows:
- Bayam Raja
- Bintang Bahambur
- Daun Jaruju
- Iris Pudak
- Kambang Raja
- Kambang Tampuk Manggis
- Kambang Tanjung
- Kangkung Kaombakan
- Kulit Kayu
- Kulit Kurikit
- Jajumputan
- Sari Gading
- Naga Balimbur
- Ombak Sinapur Karang
- Turun Dayang
- Sisik Tanggiling
